covering junction box when moving island lighting How did you mount this fixture? It looks like it's plenty wide enough to cover opening but is off center. I could be wrong but the fixture looks at least 4" wide or maybe a little more. If it does need covered: One idea is to remove . The FieldConnex® system offers several versions of standard junction boxes to connect the field devices to the trunk, with up to eight connection points for field devices. The choice of the junction box and its location to the field device allows the installer to minimize overall cable lengths.
0 · exposed ceiling junction box
1 · covering junction boxes
2 · covering junction box without wiring
3 · covering junction box outlet
4 · covering electrical junction box
5 · ceiling junction box not covering
6 · can you cover a junction box
7 · best way to cover junction box
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You cannot cover any junction box that still has live wires in it. Your best bet is to either remove the box all together or just put a cover plate on it. If you have attic access above the lights you can pull the wires out of the junction box in #2, install a new junction box in replacement of #2 junction box pointing upward towards . How did you mount this fixture? It looks like it's plenty wide enough to cover opening but is off center. I could be wrong but the fixture looks at least 4" wide or maybe a little more. If it does need covered: One idea is to remove .The old box must still remain accessible - you could cover it with a blank cover, but you can't drywall over it. You'll likely also need to install a new junction box to support the new light fixture.
exposed ceiling junction box
covering junction boxes
It should be large enough to cover the box and extend to the position of the fixture. It could be a ceiling medallion, a shelf unit, a mirror or .The better alternative is to completely remove the box and wires and cover the hole with a sheetrock patch. But that gets another trade involved, unless you want to try your hand at it. In .
The connections need to be made in the junction box (can’t have them lose in the wall). Fish the new wire, then cover the junction box with the matching metal cover, and leave accessible .
You'll need to leave it and cover it with a blank plate. If there is an attic space above, you could move the box into the attic and make the splice there and patch the hole in the ceiling. Another option to consider is turning .
When the situation calls for moving the fixture away from the switch, it may be necessary to use the existing light’s electrical box as a junction box, add more wire to reach the new location, and then cover the box with a blank cover .If so and it's just a switch leg and no other wires run through the junction box (usually the case), you can use it to feed one of the pot lights directly and then run a wire from that to the other .You cannot cover any junction box that still has live wires in it. Your best bet is to either remove the box all together or just put a cover plate on it.
If you have attic access above the lights you can pull the wires out of the junction box in #2, install a new junction box in replacement of #2 junction box pointing upward towards the attic and reconnect your wires in that new junction box.
How did you mount this fixture? It looks like it's plenty wide enough to cover opening but is off center. I could be wrong but the fixture looks at least 4" wide or maybe a little more. If it does need covered: One idea is to remove fixture, make a base for it out of non-combustible material. The old box must still remain accessible - you could cover it with a blank cover, but you can't drywall over it. You'll likely also need to install a new junction box to support the new light fixture. It should be large enough to cover the box and extend to the position of the fixture. It could be a ceiling medallion, a shelf unit, a mirror or even a small drop ceiling. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the feature, if there isn't one already, and pass the fixture wires through it. The better alternative is to completely remove the box and wires and cover the hole with a sheetrock patch. But that gets another trade involved, unless you want to try your hand at it. In any case, it adds to whatever cost you have already paid.
The connections need to be made in the junction box (can’t have them lose in the wall). Fish the new wire, then cover the junction box with the matching metal cover, and leave accessible behind the mirror.If you don't object to having a junction box cover below your new light fixture, consider leaving the original box right where it is. You'll need to leave it and cover it with a blank plate. If there is an attic space above, you could move the box into the attic and make the splice there and patch the hole in the ceiling. Another option to consider is turning the light fixture into a swag light. Just put a hanger hook above where you want the fixture to be, and droop the .
covering junction box without wiring
When the situation calls for moving the fixture away from the switch, it may be necessary to use the existing light’s electrical box as a junction box, add more wire to reach the new location, and then cover the box with a blank cover plate. Locate the switch that runs to the light fixture.
You cannot cover any junction box that still has live wires in it. Your best bet is to either remove the box all together or just put a cover plate on it. If you have attic access above the lights you can pull the wires out of the junction box in #2, install a new junction box in replacement of #2 junction box pointing upward towards the attic and reconnect your wires in that new junction box.
How did you mount this fixture? It looks like it's plenty wide enough to cover opening but is off center. I could be wrong but the fixture looks at least 4" wide or maybe a little more. If it does need covered: One idea is to remove fixture, make a base for it out of non-combustible material.
The old box must still remain accessible - you could cover it with a blank cover, but you can't drywall over it. You'll likely also need to install a new junction box to support the new light fixture. It should be large enough to cover the box and extend to the position of the fixture. It could be a ceiling medallion, a shelf unit, a mirror or even a small drop ceiling. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the feature, if there isn't one already, and pass the fixture wires through it. The better alternative is to completely remove the box and wires and cover the hole with a sheetrock patch. But that gets another trade involved, unless you want to try your hand at it. In any case, it adds to whatever cost you have already paid. The connections need to be made in the junction box (can’t have them lose in the wall). Fish the new wire, then cover the junction box with the matching metal cover, and leave accessible behind the mirror.
If you don't object to having a junction box cover below your new light fixture, consider leaving the original box right where it is. You'll need to leave it and cover it with a blank plate. If there is an attic space above, you could move the box into the attic and make the splice there and patch the hole in the ceiling. Another option to consider is turning the light fixture into a swag light. Just put a hanger hook above where you want the fixture to be, and droop the .
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covering junction box when moving island lighting|exposed ceiling junction box