rusted screw won't turn in outside plastic junction box Is there a way to get the screw to stay in in a slightly stripped screw hole on a plastic receptacle? I tighten the lower screw of the outlet receptacle and as soon as I tighten . $149.43
0 · rusted electrical screws
1 · outside electrical box repair
2 · electrical box repair
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Since it is a plastic box I would grab the screw head with locking pliers ("vice grips") literally as tight as possible, and try to turn it out. This .
Use your normal screw driver/ power drill with the screw driver bit, get a rubber band of the size of the screw and place it ontop of the screw, then use the screw driver against the rubber band .If just one of the screw tabs in the existing electrical box is broken you can easily repair the situation by using a Tapcon screw - saving hours of fooling around trying to replace the whole . Is there a way to get the screw to stay in in a slightly stripped screw hole on a plastic receptacle? I tighten the lower screw of the outlet receptacle and as soon as I tighten . If you have a rusted screw that won’t turn easily, before getting out your impact driver and using brute force, try using some lubricant and a little bit of what I like to call “percussive .
How to Fix a Screwy Electrical Box. I recently had to deal with a loose receptacle inside a plastic electrical box. It turned out the screw holes in the box were stripped. To fix the problem, I slipped small zip ties into the stripped .
rusted electrical screws
outside electrical box repair
However if the body of the electrical box is not actually broken, and if the problem is simply a stripped device mounting screw opening, you can avoid that effort. Approaches are provided for repairing a stripped or damaged screw receiver . I have a junction box that is screwed into the outside of a brick wall, but the two screws going into the brick are loose. Is there a preferred way to tighten this thing up (replace . If the existing screw is broken off in the metal box, you can drive the screw through using an awl and hammer (the screw is softer metal than the box). If the outlet box is made of . Metal vs. Plastic Junction Boxes . Corrosion Resistant: Plastic won’t rust or corrode, . Ensure that it is level and attach it securely to the studs or ceiling using screws. If you’re using a metal box, make sure it’s grounded according to local codes. For Suncos’ slim down lights, their metal junction boxes come ready to connect .
Those bell boxes fill up quickly and the water always sits in them and rusts the bottom screw out and bad ones rust the whole bottom out. This is over years. short term it will be good but 5-10 years no so much.If me, I'd clean it all out as much as possible and fill the screw holes and surrounding areas with 2-part epoxy. Then drill new holes. You can buy switch & outlet spacers at the big box in the electrical section (there's even a picture of .Replace the box. Take a hacksaw blade and cut the nails holding the box. Then take another “new work” box, take the nails out, slide it in place and from the inside of the box run Sheetrock screws into the stud! BAM ! Done !
How to Remove Rusted Screws Method One – The Simple Way. For the vast majority of rusted screws, this method will work, no matter how firmly fixed they seem to be. Here’s a step-by-step guide to the simplest, easiest way to remove rusted screws: Step 1 – Hammering. Get a hammer, and carefully but forcefully hammer on and around the screw. If you have a rusted screw that won’t turn easily, before getting out your impact driver and using brute force, try using some lubricant and a little bit of what I like to call “percussive .
electrical box repair
I have 6 outside lights and last year I replaced the screws in all of them as they were looking a bit rusty. The problem is that now in 3 of the lights the new screws are completely stuck! They all have two screws per light and I can't remove any of them. I've tried soaking them in WD40 to no avail and they are still well and truly stuck. If the box is a round type, as commonly used for ceiling lights, then an 8-32 screw would be appropriate. If the box is rectangular, as used for wiring devices (switch, outlet, etc) then a 6-32 screw is what you will need. I have successfully used coarse thread #6 drywall type screws in both type of boxes . :whistling2:
The bare ground wire in the electrical box is supposed to connect to the green screw on that short metal bar. The body of the light fixture is meant to be grounded through the mounting screw that goes into that metal bar. Do be aware that this technique of grounding the light fixture would have been the technique used in older installations. Attempting to drill the screw, especially with a hand drill, will just lead to the drill bit skidding off the top of the screw and digging into the adjacent plastic. The screw that still has some of its threads sticking out may be able to be removed by clamping onto the stub with a small pair of "Vise Grip" type pliers and turning it with the . Why would I choose a large 4x4x2.5 metal box (this is what my brain tells me to use) vs plastic box. The plastic looks like they are all designed for installing switches or outlets and not covers but they are larger and cheaper. Is there a reason why one would not just use the plastic box and cover for a junction box either in an attic or basement. Had a job today replacing receptacles and covers on exterior brick. The receptacle screws broke off flush with the box. I tried drilling out the remaining screw, but had no luck. Tapping a new screwhole in the box just caused the fiberglass box to fall apart. My idea is to use a smart box with some tapcons and hope it mounts in the brick.
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Drive a straight blade screw driver into the stud side and manipulate the box. Run a drywall screw in the back of the box, 1 1/2 inch at the the longest. Why would you run a 3” screw through a 1.5” stud? And you drive screws through the box on the opposite side of securement? Drywall is . If I fit a gland to a plastic box and use banjo's I put one on the outside as well as the inside and bolt the lot together, it acts as a washer and tends to pull everything a bit tighter. Those wiska earth bars aren't threaded though, it relies on the screw to tighten down onto the gland so the gland would still need to be secured to the box . These holes are built-in to the junction box which is made of plastic or some brownish and brittle material. I suspect this was caused by someone trying to overcome a too-crowded (or poorly laid out) junction box by using these screws to force the receptacle into the box. What is the solution without replacing the junction box?Could cost u about 99 cents for an old work electrical box from Home Depot. Would be a huge waste to pay anyone for that. Just turn off the power to the outlet be at the breaker, pull the switch out, document how the switch is wired, remove the box (might need to saw through the nails holding it to the stud), place new box, feed wires in, rewire switch, screw it back in, done
Circling back to update the thread - given the difficulties of having to deal with the red brass conduit and worrying I would just cause other problems, I decided to forego replacing the junction boxes as the boxes themselves are in great shape - it was just the metal "fascia" that the cover screws onto that had rusted out. I can't disconnect this old metal box from the metallic conduit that is behind it. From the pics you can see I was able to remove the old rusted fasteners and replace them with new ones. However I soaked that thread/nut with WD-40, grabbed the conduit connector that is behind with pliers and tried to turn it, that didn't do a thing. Turn the two screws on the box counterclockwise while pushing the screws inward. This will turn the tabs that secure the box to the wall allowing you to pull the box out. Work the cables out of the box. Get your new box, insert the cables in the box, place it in the wall and turn the screws clockwise to raise the tabs securing the box to the wall.
For screws that held the original hinge in an old wood door, and would not budge, even with the advice above, I aimed a hair dryer at the screw for a few minutes (thinking that perhaps the wood was damp and that was holding the screw in; could also have been something about heat since I often run hot water over stuck screw tops).My light fixture requires the screws from the mounting bracket to be horizontal but that's where the holes are to attach the bracket to the junction box... The spacing is also exactly the same. I don't know how to resolve this. The holes will overlay regardless of a the mounting bracket I have. Can I rotate the junction box 90 degrees somehow?
Hi, Im having issues with a loose junction box in a plasterboard wall. As per the picture attached there are two issues. One is that the red lugs don’t seem to stay so when the screws start to go in it falls back and the screws won’t go in. The second issue is that the box is a .Yeah I'm here to say dremel the plastic and remove the cover to get to screws underneath and buy a whole new housing.. I'm still right because the screw is rusted down to the treads and won't break loose. They had me for a minute though. . If your going to replace the entire unit with a new box, you won't have to worry about damaging it.The screws on the lid are made from plastic so won’t rust, are easy to turn and 2 can be left in one side to allow the cover to act like a hinged door for easy access. . Home ESR B300 Waterproof Junction Box 300 x 220 x 120mm IP56 PVC Adaptable Box Outdoor . Hinged cover and plastic easy turn screws. IP56 weatherproof rated. Material .Thanks for posting on r/MechanicAdvice!Please review the rules.Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's post on the subject. and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in r/Autobody .
The junction box has what look like two screw holes and the bracket comes with two screws that look like you just slot them into the holes, or into the tracks, and tighten them down when the other screws (with the brown tops) are aligned the way you want them so that the fixture will be properly aligned.Then put in a new junction box and cover to tie-in the rest of the wires in the light switch. If you get a metal box, make sure you get either some grounding pigtails, or make your own with grounding screws and a spare piece of bare romex. This should be screwed into the junction box, and pigtailed in with the rest of the grounds in the box.
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rusted screw won't turn in outside plastic junction box|electrical box repair