3 amp parasitic draw from engine compartment electrical box I have individually disconnected the interior lighting, speaker amp, and radio both at the fuse box and inside the cabin. No matter what combination of those three circuits are . Installation: Mount the weatherproof junction box onto the surface and run conduit. Thread the light fixture onto the mounting canopy. Connect all wires in the junction box. Then, mount the Canopy onto the junction box with screws and gasket. Make sure the whole unit is sealed properly from water. Note: all components must be UL Listed.
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I have individually disconnected the interior lighting, speaker amp, and radio both at the fuse box and inside the cabin. No matter what combination of those three circuits are . Defective modules are common causes of parasitic draw problems. With all modules working properly, I started testing the voltage drop across the fuses. I started in the engine compartment fuse box, where the only fuses I . I also discovered in my research there are testers called amp hounds that help identify active circuits when the car has been off. I tested every mini fuse, interior and exterior . Multimeter showed 1.35 amp draw, but after several minutes, it dropped to 0.36 amps. Still too high. Pulled the fuses, the shunt and the relays out of the battery junction block .
Checking the resting voltage isn't going to definitively tell you much about parasitic draw. A junky battery will lose voltage on it's own. You need to be checking amp draw. Set . ALL the fuses did not move the meter except the DOME fuse (7.5 in the engine compartment). Once the dome fuse was out, the meter reading went down quite a bit. So, I .
I have individually disconnected the interior lighting, speaker amp, and radio both at the fuse box and inside the cabin. No matter what combination of those three circuits are connected/disconnected, the connected ones each draw an unacceptable current. Defective modules are common causes of parasitic draw problems. With all modules working properly, I started testing the voltage drop across the fuses. I started in the engine compartment fuse box, where the only fuses I found flowing current were those powering up the PCM and BCM.
parasitic electrical drains troubleshooting
I also discovered in my research there are testers called amp hounds that help identify active circuits when the car has been off. I tested every mini fuse, interior and exterior fuse boxes and found one drawing .13 amps or 130mv. That fuse is the *5 location in the engine compartment. It lists Auto Start Stop, 10A (DCDC +B). Multimeter showed 1.35 amp draw, but after several minutes, it dropped to 0.36 amps. Still too high. Pulled the fuses, the shunt and the relays out of the battery junction block (under hood, drivers side). Checking the resting voltage isn't going to definitively tell you much about parasitic draw. A junky battery will lose voltage on it's own. You need to be checking amp draw. Set your meter up between either the + or - terminal of the battery and the truck side terminal.
ALL the fuses did not move the meter except the DOME fuse (7.5 in the engine compartment). Once the dome fuse was out, the meter reading went down quite a bit. So, I began with the glove box first (see prior post) because it did not have a bulb.
I find that a current of around 1.7 A is being drawn from the battery when all car systems are switched off. Now, if I'm correct, this current draw should be no more than 0.05 A (50 mA), so I start removing fuses one by one from the engine compartment fuse box, to try to pinpoint the source(s). A normal lead-acid battery loses 1% of it's rated AMP/Hour per day. If you have the large 600-ish CCA battery (I think 630 is the OEM rating) in about three weeks even if it's disconnected, it may not have enough voltage to start the truck, due to electronics needing a . I began pulling fuses in the engine compartment drivers side fuse box one at a time. When I pulled out the HVAC/ECAS fuse, the parasitic draw dropped to 0. (My clamp meter is only sensitive down to 10 mA). No production vehicle should have more than a 50 mA (0.050 amp) draw. If the draw is found to be excessive, pull fuses from the battery/central junction box one at a time and note the current drop.
I have individually disconnected the interior lighting, speaker amp, and radio both at the fuse box and inside the cabin. No matter what combination of those three circuits are connected/disconnected, the connected ones each draw an unacceptable current. Defective modules are common causes of parasitic draw problems. With all modules working properly, I started testing the voltage drop across the fuses. I started in the engine compartment fuse box, where the only fuses I found flowing current were those powering up the PCM and BCM. I also discovered in my research there are testers called amp hounds that help identify active circuits when the car has been off. I tested every mini fuse, interior and exterior fuse boxes and found one drawing .13 amps or 130mv. That fuse is the *5 location in the engine compartment. It lists Auto Start Stop, 10A (DCDC +B).
Multimeter showed 1.35 amp draw, but after several minutes, it dropped to 0.36 amps. Still too high. Pulled the fuses, the shunt and the relays out of the battery junction block (under hood, drivers side). Checking the resting voltage isn't going to definitively tell you much about parasitic draw. A junky battery will lose voltage on it's own. You need to be checking amp draw. Set your meter up between either the + or - terminal of the battery and the truck side terminal. ALL the fuses did not move the meter except the DOME fuse (7.5 in the engine compartment). Once the dome fuse was out, the meter reading went down quite a bit. So, I began with the glove box first (see prior post) because it did not have a bulb.
I find that a current of around 1.7 A is being drawn from the battery when all car systems are switched off. Now, if I'm correct, this current draw should be no more than 0.05 A (50 mA), so I start removing fuses one by one from the engine compartment fuse box, to try to pinpoint the source(s).
A normal lead-acid battery loses 1% of it's rated AMP/Hour per day. If you have the large 600-ish CCA battery (I think 630 is the OEM rating) in about three weeks even if it's disconnected, it may not have enough voltage to start the truck, due to electronics needing a .
I began pulling fuses in the engine compartment drivers side fuse box one at a time. When I pulled out the HVAC/ECAS fuse, the parasitic draw dropped to 0. (My clamp meter is only sensitive down to 10 mA).
parasitic electrical drains diagram
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parasitic electrical drains
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3 amp parasitic draw from engine compartment electrical box|parasitic electrical drains troubleshooting